Fishing #32's is a greater challenge than tying them - and it's worth developing competence at both skills for the rewards of catching on these small flies. There are only four patterns I tie and fish on #30-#32's regularly, the simplest of which is the spent spinner. Any intermediate level tyer can do a good job of this. The following SBS is based on a couple of years of refining methodology to the point that every step is specific in the interests of tying a balanced, effective and robust fly... it's also a pretty pattern and for me aesthetics are EVERYTHING.
Best results are achieved when tying with Uni Trico 17/0 or Gudebrod 10/0 thread. Sheer 14/0 is an alternative, but better matched to tying #28-#30's due to a touch more bulk. Sheer 14/0 also demands a little more care with thread control, due it's cord-like nature.
Hook: TMC 518 #32
Thread: Uni Trico 17/0
Tailing: Whisper Tails
Wing: Niche Midge Wing
Starting at the eye, lay a bed of flat thread to the bend, tie in and split the Whisper tail and take the thread forward to the point of the hook.
Trim the Whisper tails and take a SINGLE wrap of flat thread forward to soften the
shoulder where the tailing ends.
Take the thread back to the bend with touching turns of flat thread to complete the abdomen.
Apply colour to the abdomen with permanent marker. There are myriad options... I use Letraset ProMarker sandstone to cover most of the local hatches.
Apply a darker shade of permanent marker to the thread and cord-up TIGHT. Letraset ProMarker henna works well.
Apply four turns of thread to form pronounced segmentation to the abdomen, and allow the bobbin to hang free to un-cord/flatten the thread.
Take a SINGLE wrap of flattened thread forward over the
shoulder produced when the tails where trimmed.
There's no need to tie in your preferred winging material - simply slide the wing underneath the far-side of the thread and position against the
shoulder. Secure with TWO figure-of-eight wraps of thread ie. four wraps. Apply a further THREE wraps of thread behind the wing (two back, one forward) in order to taper the abdomen/thorax interface.
Make ONE final wrap of thread forward, over the thorax to bring the thread to the front of the wing. Finish with a THREE turn whip-finish to soften the bulb of the thorax.
Trim the wing to length (1-3 times the body length covers most species for imitative value... the choice is entirely yours for aesthetic appeal) by cutting in at an angle 45 degrees to the abdomen. Flare the wing with your thumb nail (push up and rock from side-to-side) and trim the wing further to form a neat profile.
There are a range of hook options for tying #30's
- TMC 518: straight shank pattern, good for fishing on and in the surface film
- Varivas 2300: as above with comparable shank length, and a useful, wider gape
- TMC 2488: curved shank, ideal for drowned spinner patterns
- Varivas 2110: as above but with a very pronounced curve which produces a uniquely pretty profile. It's worth adjusting the angle of the vice as you tie with this hook to avoid thread slippage. Drop the vice forward when working on tails, and preparing to rib
Wing material should be fine and also depends on fishing application:
- Niche Siliconised Polypropylene Yarn: The best performing yarn available, bar none. No need to treat... simply fish on the surface film for the first three drifts, it will naturally sink in to the film during the next three. Fish drowned thereafter to cover all stages.
- Tiemco Aero Dry Wing: Standard and Fine. Niche SPY outperforms standard Aero Dry Wing, the fine variant is however a delightful, super-fine alternative. Thanks for the sample, Jim.
- Niche Shuck Yarn: You can treat this for surface fishing, I prefer to use it un-treated for drowned spinners where it imitates the shimmer of wings brilliantly.
- Niche Midge Wing: Ideally suited to the scale of #32's and combines best-in-class floatation for on/in-surface film fishing and is highly imitative with a subtle and attractive shimmer.
- EP TPI Fibres: Another super-fine winging material, Watershed treated and very easy to handle.
- All of the above are available in white and shades of light grey (Niche Shuck Yarn is colourless, no options available or needed). You likely only need white to tie spent spinners.
Without exception, when I start a tying a session, I start by tying a #32. When I then scale up to #24 the hook becomes an expansive work area - if you adopt a similar approach, I guarantee your tying will improve.
